|
|
Print-friendly version
History & Production
What does 'Linen' mean?
The term linen refers to
yarn and fabric made from flax fibers. Today it is often used as a
generic term for bedding and table textiles because in the past linen
was mainly used for sheets and towels. Linens were manufactured
exclusively of fibers from the flax plant Linum usitatisimum.
But textiles made of cotton, hemp and other fibres have also been referrd to as linen which can make the exact term somewhat unclear.
About Flax fiber - Seeding to Harvest
8000
B.C. there have been found fragments of straw, seeds, fibres, yarns and
various types of fabrics in Swiss lake dwellings. Linen was used in the
Mediterranean in the pre-Christian age and as a currency in ancient
Egypt. The egyptian mummies were wrapped in linen because it was seen
as a symbol of light and purity, and as a display of wealth.
The
flax grown in Europe is recognised as being the best in the world.
There is the most well-suited soil, a favourable climate and the long
history of knowledge and experience of the flax growers whose prime
concern is quality.
Flax growing is very ecological as it needs 5
times less fertilisers and pesticides than cotton to grow. The plants
need to be cleared of weeds but even that is not much either. The
amount of weedkiller used in comparision to other plants: Flax
1.3kg/ha, weat 3.1kg/ha, sugar 4.9kg/ha, potatoes 17kg/ha.
Seeding
takes place in March and April. After about 100 days it will bloom
having a blue flower. When the flower gets yellow and loses the leaves
it needs to get harvested. The flax fibres vary in lenght from 50 -
100cm and have an avarage of 11-16 micrometer in diameter.
There are 2 types of fibres:
shorter tow fibres - used for coarser fabrics
longer line fibres - used for finer fabrics, strong yarn
To
generate the longest possible fibers, flax is either hand harvested by
pulling up the entire plant or stalks are cut very close to the root.
After harvesting, the seeds are removed through a mechanized process
called rippling. Then the fibres must be loosened from the stalk. This
is done through retting which uses bacteria to decompose the pectin
that binds the fibers toghether. The natural retting method is done in
tanks and pools or directly in the fields. Now the stalks are ready for
scutching. This removes the woody portion of the stalk by crushing them
between two metal rollers so that the part of the stalk get separated.
The fibres are removed and the other parts like linseed, shive and tow
are used otherwise.
After the fibres have been separated and processed, they are spun into yarns depending on their lenght.
Dry-spinning, for shorter fibres, resulting in thicker yarn (furnishings, technical applications etc)
Wet-spinning, using long fibres, resulting in fine yarn (to be used in clothing, household linen)
|
|